Snowberry Questions & Answers
Skin reaction
Response
Many thanks for contacting us regarding your experience with Snowberry product. We have forwarded your message to Snowberry’s
Chief Scientist, Dr. Andy Lavrent. In the meantime, we hope that the following information is helpful. Snowberry is designed to be gentle and has been clinically proven to have zero cyto-toxicity. This is largely due to the fact that we use none of the typical petrochemical ingredients that may cause irritation, and we use a natural preservative system instead of parabens. Snowberry products also use a naturally-derived fragrance that is tested hypoallergenic, as are our products generally. Having said that, Snowberry is also an unusually functional anti-aging skincare range that incorporates the finest anti-aging peptides, phospholipids and anti-oxidants obtainable at levels determined optimum for skin renewal. In that sense alone, Snowberry is a rather different anti-aging skincare range – it is a highly active product, and of course, skin varies and for some people what is gentle, for others may be irritating. For this reason we strongly suggest patch testing of all products on the skin of the underarm, and then to use each product sparingly until the appropriate intensity is learned that best suits. In fact, we expect customers to use less of our creams and serums than they would of other brands. It is quite common incidentally, when changing brands of skincare that initially, and especially where the new brand is more functional than may have been previously used, there may be some reaction to the new formulation. This generally lasts only a short time. Without knowing the  details, it is possible that what you have experienced may be one or a combination of the above.

Allergy reaction
Response
We are very concerned to learn that you have experienced an allergic reaction using Snowberry. Without attempting to second guess just what went wrong for you, the following information may be helpful.Snowberry is designed to be gentle skincare and has been clinically proven to have zero cytotoxicity and in fact is considered by the dermatological institute in France that carried out the tests, to be hypoallergenic. Consequently, any form of allergic reaction is of particular concern to us. Having said that, Snowberry is also an unusually functional anti-aging skincare range that incorporates the finest anti-aging peptides, fruit extracts, phospholipids and anti-oxidants obtainable at levels determined optimum for skin renewal. In that sense alone, Snowberry is a rather different anti-aging skincare range – it is a highly active product, and of course, skin varies and for some people what is gentle, for others may be irritating. For this reason we strongly suggest patch testing of all products on the skin on the underarm, and then to use each product sparingly until the appropriate intensity is learned that best suits. In fact, we expect customers to use less of our creams and serums than they would of other brands. It is quite common incidentally, when changing brands of skincare that initially, and especially where the new brand is more functional than may have been previously used, there may be some reaction to the new formulation. This generally lasts only a short time. Without knowing the details, it is possible that what you have experienced may be one or a combination of the above.

Perfume in product
Response
Snowberry has chosen to include a very light fragrance in order to neutralise the scent of a combination of natural, functional ingredients. If you are concerned about the possibility of skin irritation resulting from a fragrance, you will perhaps be reassured that Snowberry has not used essential oils or natural fragrances (that are most often linked to allergens), and that our clinically tested, hypoallergenic fragrance is used in a range of 0.20% to 0.3% compared to conventional usage of 1.2 to 3% fragrance. The reference to 'parfum' near the end of our product INCI list  (ingredient list) does not refer to fragrance. In fact this is the name of a naturally derived ingredient used primarily to adjust the pH-values in leave-on- and rinse-off-products. You may also be interested to know that our Instant Deep Cleanser does not include any fragrance because this combination of natural herbal oils has its own, delightful scent.

Fragrance –
‘Parfum’
Response
The two ingredients are not actually related. Parfum is a plant-derived esther that is used as a component of the product stabilisation system. The fragrance is not 100% natural for very good reason. Ironically, and contrary to most people’s expectations, most natural fragrances are inclined to be allergenic. Our objective was to develop a fragrance that would be hypoallergenic i.e. much more suited to sensitive skin. This highly desirable result was borne out by the clinical trials that showed Snowberry has a zero level of cytotoxity.In any event, we recommend to any customer, patch testing of a sample on the soft skin of the underside of the arm. This is not simply to test for any potential allergic response, but also because Snowberry is a highly functional product. It is common for a slight reaction to occur when changing from one brand of skincare to another – especially when the new brand is more active. For these reasons we always recommend using Snowberry sparingly in the first instance.

SPF
Response
Thank you for your enquiry about a Snowberry SPF product. As you may know, it is our policy not to combine sun blocks with our anti-aging creams and serums. It is our view that these two essential products should be applied separately, in accordance with their specific purpose. However, the inclusion of Coffee Bean oil, Suma oil and algae extracts does provide useful UV protection and a barrier to many environmental pollutants. In any event, you may be pleased to know that we plan to provide a two natural broad spectrum sunscreen products in 2010, that we expect to be hypoallergenic also. This is a particularly exciting development because it will mean, in keeping with our philosophy of providing our customers with effective but gentle skincare products, we will avoid the use of chemical screens. We will be pleased to keep you informed about this new product. In any event, we welcome your feedback. Snowberry is now in stock with SPF15.

Natural or synthetic?
Response
Snowberry is not a certified natural or organic brand and we do not intend it to be so. The reason for this is that although >95% of our ingredients are oils and extracts from natural herbs, we also use a range of peptides that must be synthesised to be stable in the serums and in order to cross the dermal barrier; and we use a very low concentration of a synthetic but hypoallergenic fragrance. Consequently, we have designed Snowberry to be a highly functional anti-aging skincare range - but as natural as possible. As you may appreciate, without the peptides the product would be a moisturiser with some anti-oxidant properties – as are most certified organic/natural brands, since they cannot use these peptides and some anti-oxidants for that reason. Apart from that, Snowberry uses no parabens in the preservative system, and with the exception of honey and cultured coral for example, uses no animal products. As I am sure you also appreciate, we certainly do not use any petrochemical, silicone, filler, glycol, volatile alcohol or artificial colour. Our principal customer is the person who wants a product that is as natural as possible but that works. For the latter reason we have independent clinical trials carried out in German and French dermatological institutes, which show very positive outcomes in terms of improved skin elasticity, wrinkle reduction and DNA protection. So, while we share some of your concern about synthetic ingredients in general, in our view if you are looking for truly effective anti-aging skincare, you will welcome the use of synthesised peptides. It may be helpful if I explain why. Among other things, peptides act as ‘messengers’ that stimulate skin cells to perform particular functions. Consequently, as aging skin produces less collagen, the ability to prompt it to make more, materially helps to preserve the vital intercellular matrix and so reduces wrinkling. In effect, by introducing peptides such as Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 and Tripeptide-1, the skin is ‘tricked’ into producing more collagen. Other peptides are sometimes described as having a ‘Botox-like’ action. Pentapeptide-18 and Acetyl hexapeptide-8 are examples of peptides that act to reduce the muscular contractions responsible for the appearance of expression lines. Some peptides have beneficial hormonal functionality. The thymus is a small organ located in the chest cavity that is responsible for producing hormones that stimulate the production of infection-fighting cells. This makes the thymus an important element in skin protection and repair. With age, the ability of the thymus to produce the hormone Thymopoietin is reduced. Peptides, such as Acetyl-Tetrapeptide-2 are designed to mimic and compensate for the natural loss of thymic factors, boosting the skin’s natural immune systems and so maintaining more effective skin protection for longer. Other key anti-aging functions for peptides are, as is accomplished with Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5, the reduction of liquid accumulation, which is invaluable in reducing puffy eye bags, and consequently makes this and similar peptides, key ingredients in an effective eye serum. Because they directly influence skin smoothness, elasticity and firmness in the ways described, peptides are essential anti-aging skincare ingredients. That many brands of anti-aging skincare do not contain peptides is probably due to the fact that some proprietary peptides are simply very expensive (upwards of £120,000 per kilo). It may also be due to the fact that peptides are not naturally stable and in any event, are difficult to transport across the epidermal barrier into the cells and intercellular matrix where they can do good. Peptides with these desirable attributes must be synthesised, which basically rules out simple extraction from natural sources for these wonderful ingredients, which also makes them unacceptable for 100% organic or natural  brands. Then, the formulation in which they are contained must also include a very sophisticated delivery system such as Snowberry’s liposomal encapsulation. So, Snowberry is a combination of the finest natural herbal oils and extracts available from all around the world, with the most effective peptides and anti-oxidants. But as mentioned, we use no petrochemicals of any kind and we employ a natural herbal preservative system instead of parabens. That we use a synthetic fragrance may be surprising, but we do so because most natural fragrances are in fact notoriously allergenic. Our objective, especially for those with sensitive skin, was to provide a hypoallergenic fragrance and product. In this respect you will be interested to know that Snowberry products are rated as having zero cytotoxicity and are considered to be dermatologically hypoallergenic.

Pregnancy
Response
Thank you for your query. We can well understand your concern about suitable skin care during pregnancy. The only way you could be completely reassured is by forgoing the use of any skin care of any description throughout. However, we do not think that is necessary for the following reasons. First, the cosmetic ingredients about which health concerns have been properly raised include petro chemicals, propylene and butylene glycols, volatile alcohols, and paraben preservatives. Snowberry uses none of these chemicals or any other about which we believe there is any reservation about safety. Instead, we employ a natural herbal preservative combined predominantly with natural herbal oils and extracts. However, we do use some highly functional anti-ageing synthesised peptides and anti-oxidants. That these ingredients are synthesised rather than derived by simple extraction is because they are not sufficiently stable in a topical cream in their natural state. There is no evidence that these ingredients are anything but beneficial. Snowberry also uses a synthetic fragrance. We decided to include this over any natural fragrance because we wanted Snowberry to be hypoallergenic, and as you may know, and somewhat ironically, few natural fragrances (or ingredients) can actually make this claim. In general, I am pleased to advise that Snowberry products have been clinically tested to show zero cyto toxicity, skin sensitisation or irritancy and are considered to be hypoallergenic. Our philosophy is to formulate skin care that is as natural as possible, that works and that can be trusted absolutely – because that is what we want for ourselves. We make no compromises in this.

Moisturising
Response
With respect to your query, our advice is as follows. First, Snowberry creams are designed to absorb into the skin very rapidly. If you have been accustomed to using a moisturising cream that allows the emollients to stay largely on top of the skin, then you can see it and often feel it on the skin, so by comparison, the Snowberry cream may feel that it is not moisturising as effectively. This is not actually so. The hydration effect of the Snowberry day creams is high but due to their quite different action, may result in the feeling of apparent dryness you mention. In fact, the Snowberry creams are clinically tested to show an average 35%+ hydration within one hour, and to reduce skin moisture loss by in excess of 12% and up to 30% after 28 days. This is a very important difference to understand. However, if you feel that you do require a slightly heavier moisturiser, we would commend the Rich Day Cream to you, in which regard you may find it helpful to alternate with the Lite Day Cream depending on your immediate environment e.g. use the Rich Day Cream if you are going to spend more time outdoors or in a harsh air conditioned environment. We also suggest that you might find using the Night Cream helpful also.

Peptides
Response
Thank you for your query about Snowberry. While  we share your concern about synthetic ingredients, in our view, any one who is looking for truly effective anti-aging skincare, will welcome the use of synthesised peptides. It may be helpful if I explain why. Because we recognise that it is simply not possible to produce a highly functional anti-aging skin care formulation without using peptides, our philosophy is for Snowberry to be as natural as possible, rather than simply organic. Naturally occurring in the skin, peptides are short proteins that have been discovered to act as, among other things, ‘messengers’ that stimulate skin cells to perform particular functions. Consequently, as aging skin produces less collagen, the ability to prompt it to make more, materially helps to preserve the vital intercellular matrix and so reduces wrinkling. In effect, by introducing peptides such as Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 and Tripeptide-1, the skin is ‘tricked’ into producing more collagen. Other peptides are sometimes described as having a ‘Botoxlike’ action. Pentapeptide-18 and Acetyl hexapeptide-8 are examples of peptides that act to reduce the muscular contractions responsible for the appearance of expression lines. Some peptides have beneficial hormonal functionality. The thymus is a small organ located in the chest cavity that is responsible for producing hormones that stimulate the production of infection-fighting cells. This makes the thymus an important element in skin protection and repair. With age, the ability of the thymus to produce the hormone Thymopoietin is reduced. Peptides, such as Acetyl-Tetrapeptide-2 are designed to mimic and compensate for the natural loss of thymic factors, boosting the skin’s natural immune systems and so maintaining more effective skin protection for longer. Other key anti-aging functions for peptides are, as is accomplished with Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5, the reduction of liquid accumulation, which is invaluable in reducing puffy eye bags, and consequently makes this and similar peptides, key ingredients in an effective eye serum. Because they directly influence skin smoothness, elasticity and firmnessin the ways described, peptides are essential anti-aging skincare ingredients. That many brands of anti-aging skincare do not contain peptides is probably due to the fact that some proprietary peptides are simply very expensive. It may also be due to the fact that peptides are not naturally stable and in any event, are difficult to transport across the epidermal barrier into the cells and intercellular matrix where they can do good. Peptides with these desirable attributes must be synthesised, which basically rules out simple extraction from natural sources for these wonderful ingredients, which also makes them unacceptable for 100% organic or natural brands. Then, the formulation in which they are contained must also include a very sophisticated delivery system such as Snowberry’s liposomal encapsulation. So, Snowberry is a combination of the finest natural herbal oils available from all around the world, with the most effective peptides and antioxidants. But we use no petrochemicals of any kind and a natural herbal preservative system instead of parabens. In answer to your question about your eye lines, I would be surprised if you did not find our eye serum most helpful. A truly functional eye serum will be designed in such a way that its action on this very sensitive skin is exceptionally gentle, and secondly, it needs a combination of ingredients that will directly counter oedema and fat build-up. For this reason Snowberry uses Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5 and an extract from the bark of the South American ‘Canon Wood’ tree, that together help to inhibit the permeability of capillaries (literally, repair leaking capillaries), reduce fat deposit accumulation, and at the same time help to prevent the process known as glycation, or degradation of  the normal functioning of proteins and lipids in the skin. Independent clinical trials have shown that the Snowberry Eye Serum results in an average reduction in the number of wrinkles of 11.03% after 28 days, and up to 29%. So, if you wish to use only organic product, then we cannot help. However, if you wish to use a product that is very natural, clinically tested to be completely safe and also highly effective, then we can.